In late September of 2022, I flew from Madrid to Bordeaux, a port city in south-western France known for its wines, ancient Roman ruins, and Gothic architecture. But that’s not why I went: I wanted to find a trace of my ancestors, who lived in the region a couple of centuries ago, and I got lucky with some old, hand-written registries I found in the national archives. In my free time, I explored the city’s gardens and streets during the first few days of autumn.



















